The "do it properly" fork: a lifted, AWD/4×4 overland rig instead of the road-biased luxury Sprinter. The interior fitout is identical to the standard build — this page only covers what's different: the AWD base vehicle, the mechanical/chassis upgrades, and the off-road extras. A later-stage decision (spring/summer), after a hire-van Euro shakedown.
Reality check (a rich man's game).
Before falling down the YouTube hole: an honest framing of what this fork actually costs and when it makes sense to commit.
What you already concluded — quantified
It's a $150–220k project, not a $60k one. Rough all-in maths: a clean AWD base ($50–95k used) + the standard interior fitout (~$25k medium, from the build page) + the off-road delta below (~$10k lean / ~$45k medium / ~$100k+ full-noise). The middle of that is a $150k+ van. Two big-ticket forks — a pop-top (~$12–25k) and crash-tested travel seats (~$2–9k + cert) — sit in their own sections below and aren't in that delta.
Resale only works if it's "properly" done. The 3–4-year resale crowd want a relatively new Merc/VW, factory or certified AWD, lift + all-terrains, auto-levelling, lights, protection — a half-measure off-roader is the hardest thing to sell. That's exactly why the spec balloons.
The mechanical half isn't a DIY job. GVM re-plating, lift geometry, lockers, skid plates, bull bar + sensor recalibration — all professional-install. You can build the inside; you're buying the outside. That means finding a good 4×4/overland fabricator and booking their queue.
So: defer and de-risk. Do the short Euro hire-van trip first to learn what you actually use off-road, then commit to a real AWD build in spring/summer once everything else is done. This page is the homework, not a shopping list to action now.
Weight reality: the off-road extras below add roughly ~400 kg at the medium tier on top of the ~680 kg standard fitout — which is why a GVM upgrade is item #1, not an afterthought. A maxed AWD van blows past factory GVM long before you've loaded water, gear and yourself.
The AWD base.
Which second-hand AWD/4×4 base to build on, for an Australia build that later ships to Europe. Ranked for the real mission: full-time solo living + genuine off-road, supported on both continents.
Correcting the plan page. The plan note says "a true 519 4×4 doesn't exist in AU" — that's wrong. Mercedes did officially sell factory 4×4 Sprinters here from 2010, in both generations, and the 519 4WD is the real truck-rated version (trucksales review, Outback Travel buyers guide). The catch isn't existence — it's that good bare donors are rare, dear, and mostly high-km ex-ambulance, and finished 4×4 campers run $150k–$232k.
The options, ranked
Base
Gen / years
Drivetrain
Verdict for this mission
Used (AUD '26)
Sprinter 4×4 — NCV3
~2010–2018
Selectable 4WD + 1.42:1 low range; open diffs
The enthusiast sweet spot. The only mainstream van here with real low range in a van body — what the overland-camper aftermarket (Agile, Van Compass) is built around. Donors are scarce/high-km ex-ambulance.
$45k–75k bare
VW Crafter 4Motion
SY1, 2017→
On-demand AWD (Haldex), no low range; optional locking rear diff
The sensible pick. Easy to buy, warrantied near-new, brilliant in Europe, great build dimensions. Traction not terrain — handles sand/gravel/snow/wet grass, not rock steps, without a lift + tyres + locker.
$75k–100k near-new
Iveco Daily 4×4 (55S17W)
2012→
Permanent AWD, quad-range transfer case, front + centre + rear diff locks, 255 mm clearance
The expedition pick. The only genuinely serious off-roader here. But it's a truck to live with — narrow, harsh, manual, thirsty, holds value hard. Overkill unless you're truly remote/technical for years.
$75k–155k+
Sprinter 4×4 — VS30
2019→ (Magna 2022+)
Torque-on-demand AWD, no real low range (deep 1st gear instead)
Modern and capable on traction, but not the NCV3's selectable 4WD. Don't pay a "4×4" premium expecting low-range crawling — you won't get it. Very expensive, rare used.
$185k–232k built
Fuso Canter 4×4
2010s→
Part-time 4×4, low range, rear diff lock
Genuinely capable + tough + cheap parts, but it's a cab-chassis truck — you build a box on the back, not convert a van. Different category.
$39k–74k
HiAce 4×4 (Bus4x4)
conversion
Aftermarket full 4WD, low range, optional rear locker
Ruled out for this mission. Factory HiAce is RWD only; the 4×4 is an AU-only aftermarket conversion — awkward to support and resell in Europe. Too small for full-time anyway.
$90k–130k all-in
Ruled out earlier: Renault Master (no 4×4 offered in AU at all) and the new Ford Transit Custom Trail AWD (too small for full-time living, no used market yet).
The Sprinter 4×4 reality in Australia
Factory option, partner-built. Sold here from 2010. The 4WD hardware came from Oberaigner (pre-2022), then Magna Steyr 4Matic (Sept 2022+) — factory-fitted, not a backyard conversion. Mercedes barely markets it, which is why people assume it doesn't exist.
Model digits = tonnage: 3 ≈ 3.5t (319), 4 ≈ 4.1t (419), 5 ≈ 5.0–5.5t (519). The 519 4WD is the truck-rated one.
NCV3 (≈2010–2018) = the "proper" one — selectable 4WD, ~1.42:1 low range (crawl ~20:1), open centre/rear diffs (no factory locks on AU vans). VS30 (2019→) = AWD-on-demand — a hydraulic clutch sends up to ~50% forward on slip; no traditional low range, just a very deep first gear. See Agile's crawl-ratio comparison.
Used market: affordable bare 4×4s are mostly ex-ambulance NCV3 at 200k+ km; low-km ones (~$75k / 65k km) and finished campers are dear. If you want the real low-range version, target a clean pre-2022 NCV3.
Where to look (live listings turn over fast — search pages last longer than single ads)
Sprinter 4×4 (NCV3, low-range): seen recently — a 2018 319CDI NCV3 4×4, 65k km, $74,990 (Pakenham VIC); a 2017 316CDI "RARE 4X4", 222k km, $48,990 (Thomastown VIC); ex-ambulance 4WDs from ~$29.5k. Gumtree Sprinter search
VW Crafter 4Motion: used 4Motion donors are genuinely scarce (market is new/ex-demo + finished Kampervans, ~$81–100k new). Gumtree Crafter 4×4 search · carsales Crafter
Iveco Daily 4×4: holds value hard — even high-km 2017–18 sit ~$76–100k; near-new ~$150k. carsales 55S17W index
"What a built 4×4 camper costs" references: 2019 Horizon Waratah Sprinter 519 4×4 LWB ~$189k (now sold, Ballina Campers); new 2026 Sprinter 419 AWD camper ~$231,950 (OnlyVans).
The verdict
If you want the proper badge + low range and can be patient: hunt a clean, lower-km NCV3 Sprinter 4×4 (pre-2022) donor, or grab a used 4×4 camper if one lands under ~$170k. Best capability-per-livability in van form, fully supported in AU and Europe.
If you want lowest-risk + easiest ownership (and honestly, most people don't need true low range — especially in Europe): a VW Crafter 4Motion, or even a 2WD Crafter/Sprinter, then spend the savings on all-terrains + a modest lift + a rear locker + recovery gear. Out-performs expectations, simpler to keep alive on the road, resells well on both continents.
Iveco Daily 4×4 only if your honest use is genuinely remote, technical, multi-year expedition. Otherwise it's more truck than the trip needs.
Avoid for this mission: AU-only HiAce 4×4 conversions (Europe support/resale), the brand-new Transit Custom Trail (too small), and overpaying for a VS30 "4×4" believing it matches the NCV3 — it doesn't.
Mechanical upgrades.
What actually changes on the chassis/drivetrain to make a Sprinter or Crafter capable off-road — the why, the Australian legal angle, and what's DIY vs pro. Costs for every item are in the budget table below.
The order of operations (and the AU-specific traps)
1 · GVM upgrade — do this first. A fully-fitted off-road van blows past factory GVM. A GVM upgrade legally raises the limit and supplies the suspension/brakes to carry it. Pre-rego (Second-Stage-of-Manufacture, e.g. Lovells/Pedders) is cheaper and valid in every state — best if buying new. Post-rego needs an individual engineer's certificate; in Victoria that's a VicRoads/VASS signatory ($500–1,500 on top of the kit). Sprinters commonly re-plate to 4,490 kg (stays on a car licence).
2 · Modest lift + tuned shocks — not maximum height. The goal is clearance + bigger tyres + damping for a loaded van on corrugations. On AWD/4×4 the front drive (CV) shafts are short, so a good kit lifts the body while keeping axle geometry stock: ~1–1.5" on AWD/4×4, ~2.5" on 2WD. Beyond ~2" invites driveline vibration, ABS/ESP angle faults and CV wear. AU-stocked path of least resistance: Seikel (via Trakka/KombiLife) or local Lovells/Pedders/King Springs; import options are Van Compass Striker and the Agile RIP kit (famous ride quality).
3 · Protection.Diff/trans breathers (~$124, DIY) are the cheapest, highest-value mod — they stop cold water being sucked past the seals on crossings. Then skid plates (sump, fuel/AdBlue, transfer case), rated recovery points (factory loops will tear off under a kinetic snatch), and rock sliders.
4 · Tyres + wheels before lockers. Quality LT (light-truck) all-terrains with a load index that clears your axle ratings — never let a fitter substitute a passenger tyre — plus airing down, solve most real traction needs. Load-rated wheels (steel = bashable; alloy = lighter/higher-rated) and a matching 5th.
5 · Lockers — the premium step. AWD Sprinter/Crafter use reactive brake-based traction control, which can leave you spinning with the throttle pinned. A mechanical rear locker guarantees drive (ARB Air Locker via Agile is the proven Sprinter route; front lockers aren't offered). The Crafter's factory rear diff-lock is order-time only — it can't be retrofitted.
6 · Then the heavy bolt-ons. Bull bar + winch (~1.5× loaded GVM ≈ 12,000 lb; recalibrates radar/airbag sensors on modern vans and adds big front-axle weight), steering damper to tame bump-steer from the bigger tyres, and a brake refresh for loaded alpine descents.
Two recurring traps: a US lift kit does not give you a legal GVM increase in Australia — only an AU SSM/engineer-certified upgrade does; and the 2023+ AWD 4-cylinder breaks fitment for several parts (snorkels especially are often V6-only), so confirm engine/wheelbase/drivetrain before buying anything.
Mechanical work adds real lead time on top of the standard build schedule — most of it is booked into a 4×4/overland fabricator's queue rather than done in your own driveway. Budget weeks of shop time, not just dollars.
Pop-top roof.
A pop-top (elevating roof) is a bigger decision than it looks — it's a fork in the build, not a bolt-on. For an off-road rig it has a real upside, but it collides head-on with the high-roof + roof-solar assumptions of the standard build.
The fork: pop-top vs high roof — they need different donor vans. A pop-top is cut into a low/standard-roof van; you generally can't fit one to a factory super-high-roof Sprinter (which the standard build assumes). So choosing a pop-top usually means buying a different, lower-roof donor. When raised you get ~60–76 cm of extra headroom (standing room under the lid); when down you have no standing room on a low-roof donor — you pop it every time you want to stand. The exception is the UK Atek GRP roof, purpose-built to sit on a high-roof van: you keep full downstairs standing height and gain an upstairs double bed. For this build, Atek (or a fixed high roof) is the only version that doesn't force a donor downgrade.
Why it's tempting on an off-road build — and why it fights the brief
The genuine off-road wins: a folded pop-top sits lower (better centre of gravity on side-slopes — the one objective off-road advantage), clears branches on trails, fits height-limited car parks/garages and cheaper ferry decks, and is more aerodynamic for the long European drives. Closed, it adds only ~5–22 cm to overall height.
The roof-real-estate clash: the lid eats the roof. Little or no room for a fixed solar array, a load-rated platform, MaxxFan, awning rail or recovery boards — exactly the gear the extras below assume. Solar drops to lower-wattage flexibles bonded to the lid (run hotter, less output). For a solar-hungry electric build, that's a real energy hit. Lid load limits are low too (~60–90 kg total).
Off-road durability: soft canvas bellows are the weak point on corrugations and in dust/storms — ingress, UV, mould, and flapping. Hard-shell pop-tops (Atek, Colorado) handle dust/water/UV far better and insulate better than canvas.
Winter Europe: canvas has roughly the R-value of a tent — cold and condensation-prone in the Alps. A fixed high roof is a sealed, lined cabin. Budget a fitted thermal liner from day one if you go soft-canvas.
Living realities: daily set-up/pack-down to stand or sleep; canvas-not-steel perimeter when popped (less secure); seals/zips are wear items. Adds ~45–160 kg (less than a fixed high-roof raise), and keeps mass low — a payload/CoG plus.
The options — cost, fit & delivery
Roof
Type / fit
Bed
Cost (AUD '26)
Source & lead time
Atek (UK)
GRP hard-shell; fits a HIGH-roof Sprinter (2006–22), Crafter, MAN TGE — keeps downstairs standing height
Upstairs 200 × 120 cm
Quote-only (£ several k)
Banwy/UK fitters; stock roof ~2 wks. Best fitted in Europe.
No clear AU distributor (Camper Envy appears closed); import + local fit, or fit in Europe.
Reimo (DE)
Soft canvas; standard flat- or high-roof mounting frames; Sprinter/Crafter
200 × 120 cm
Unit ~$10.4k + frame/paint/fit
AU distributor: Reimo Australia / Auzzie RV. Made-to-order ~8 wks by sea; stock parts 2–3 days.
Colorado (US)
Hybrid hard-lid + heavy canvas; Sprinter low/mid/high roof; bed rated >270 kg
122 × 203 cm
All-in ~US$20–25k
US install only (bring the van to Colorado) — high friction for an AU build.
GTRV (US)
Hard-lid + canvas, low-profile; low/mid-roof vans
~24–30 cm headroom raised
Install ~US$8.5–10k
US-only fit. Confirm high-roof fitment (aimed at low-roof).
Alu-Cab
Utes only — no van elevating roof exists (their AU base is Keysborough VIC)
n/a for a van
n/a
Only relevant if you pivot to a ute/4×4 tray platform.
*AU "all-in" SCA figure is a community estimate, not a quoted price — verify. A cheaper non-pop alternative: a fixed fibreglass high-top (e.g. Ballina Fibreglass) is ~$4,600–4,900 fitted, ~5-day turnaround — but that's a permanent raise, not an elevating roof. No Victorian maker fits a Sprinter/Crafter pop-top; the nearest supply-and-fit is Southern Spirit Campervans (Brisbane), DIY kits via KombiLife (Sydney/GC) / Reimo Australia, or a whole-van Trakka JCrew (Sydney).
Install issues — read before cutting a near-new Merc.Cutting the roof is irreversible and structural — the factory roof carries rollover/crush loads, so the aperture must be re-framed and re-sealed by a serious installer. In Victoria it's a certifiable structural modification: a campervan/roof conversion needs a VASS signatory engineer's certificate (VSB14 Section LH, code LH11; VSI 5/VSI 8) — talk to a signatory before any cutting. An unapproved cut can have Mercedes/VW deny rust/water-ingress claims around the modification. And European TÜV ≠ Australian compliance: if you fit it overseas while the van's AU-registered you still face the VASS step; on EU import it's re-certified via TÜV — carry all the engineering paperwork + build photos.
For this build
Default recommendation: keep the fixed high roof. Full-time living + alpine/winter Europe + a solar-hungry electric off-road platform all point that way — insulation, security, always-ready standing room and a big fixed solar array win. It's also what the rest of this build assumes.
If the low-CoG / low-height advantage is judged essential (genuinely technical, branchy, height-limited touring), the only defensible version is a hard-shell on a high-roof donor — i.e. an Atek — professionally fitted and VASS-certified, not a soft canvas top. Avoid cheap soft pop-tops for a full-time off-road rig.
Sourcing: since the van's Europe-bound anyway, fit the roof in Europe — it's markedly cheaper (no AU freight + ~5% duty + 10% GST stack), the maker network is dense, and you get TÜV at source. The catch is the maker's queue (fit-at-source can be ~12 months); importing the bare unit to AU is ~8 weeks but then needs a willing local fitter.
Travel seats → bed.
Belted rear seats that carry 1–2 passengers while driving and fold flat into a bed when parked — handy for the occasional guest without committing the whole rear to a fixed bed. The catch is almost entirely legal: a seat you can belt someone into is a very different (and far more certified) thing than a bed you can sleep on.
The one rule that matters: a crash-tested seat, not a bed with a belt screwed on. To legally carry a belted passenger in the back you need a crash-tested seat frame (Europe: M1 / ECE R14·R16·R17 — anchorages, belts, seat strength; Australia: ADR 3/4/5) whose seatbelt anchorages are separately engineered and bolted through a reinforced floor into a load-rated mounting plate tied to the chassis. The cheap generic "rock-and-roll beds" ($600–1,500) are legal as a bed only — their frames aren't built to carry belt loads (M1 testing applies ~6–7 tonnes), and belting a passenger into one is unsafe and can void your insurance.
The options — belted seats, cost & approval
Product
Belted seats / bed
Approval
Cost (AUD '26)
Source & notes
RIB Altair (UK / Scopema FR)
2–3; folds flat, slider versions move ~20 cm
M1 pull-tested + TÜV
Unit ~$3,900 (2-seat) – $4,950 (3-seat)
The 130/150 cm units fit the front half of a Sprinter/Crafter. EU supply — best fitted in Europe.
Reimo VarioTech 3000 (DE)
3 belted + 2 ISOFIX; slides (5–7 lock positions)
TÜV ECE R14 & R17; M1/N1
Unit ~$6,900–9,100
AU distributor + fitter: Reimo Australia / Auzzie RV (Moss Vale NSW). Confirm a current Sprinter/Crafter-rated variant (standard line is T-series/Transit).
Smart Bed Evolution / Trakka (AU)
2–3; fold-flat on rails
M1 tested in-van
~$1,900–2,300 (frame/belts/rails)
Trakka (Sydney) resells the UK Smart Bed and supplies the test reports for blue-slip/VASS. Fits Sprinter.
KombiLife SafetyExcel (AU)
1 / 2 / 3; 3-pt belts + child anchorage each seat
Needs state engineering sign-off
$1,810 / $2,880 / $3,630
Sold for VW Crafter (+ T-series). DIY supply; certify locally.
SS Campervans (AU, Brisbane)
2-seater, or 3-point unit sized for Sprinter/Crafter
ADR-approved (per listing)
From ~$4,950 (2) / ~$5,590 (Sprinter 3-pt)
Australian-made; the Sprinter/Crafter-sized unit is the directly relevant one.
Generic untested frame
2; fold-flat
None — bed only
$600–1,500
Fine to sleep on; not legal/safe to belt passengers into. Listed only to rule out.
Unit prices only — add an engineered mounting plate + install, plus (UK/EU imports) ~5% duty + 10% GST. Weights aren't published, but budget ~40–70 kg for a 2–3-seat tested frame + plate against your GVM. No Melbourne converter surfaced for crash-tested Sprinter/Crafter seat installs — the AU paths are KombiLife (Crafter), Trakka or SS Campervans, plus a Victorian VASS signatory.
Making it legal — Australia (Victoria) & Europe. Adding a seating/belt position is a structural modification under Victoria's VSI-19 (Modifying seats or seating capacity) and VSB14 Section LK (Seating & Occupant Protection) — it needs a VASS signatory engineer's certificate; talk to one before fitting. The seat feet and belt anchorages must bolt into an engineered steel plate/subframe that spreads load into the chassis (prefer bolted rails over bonded on an off-road build). Two gotchas: a panel-van rear needs at least one opening window before carrying rear passengers, and for a van ≤4,495 kg GVM a VASS certificate is valid in Victoria only (re-cert if you register interstate; increasing seating capacity can also change the ADR category). In Europe the same tested unit, properly installed, satisfies M1 / ECE R14·R16·R17.
For this build
Solo with the occasional 1–2 guests → a crash-tested single/double seat-bed on sliders is the sweet spot: belted travel seats and a sleeping surface from one footprint, with the slider reclaiming floor/garage space when you're solo. A separate fixed rear bed plus a forward seat-bed is bulkier than a solo trip needs.
Sourcing: since the van's Europe-bound, fit a RIB/Scopema or Reimo unit in Europe — cheaper (no duty/GST/freight), wider fitter choice, and M1 is exactly what's required there. Only if you'll carry rear passengers in Australia before shipping do you need the AU route + a VASS cert first (KombiLife / Trakka / SS Campervans already supply the paperwork for that).
Off-road extras & budget.
Everything the off-road fork adds on top of the standard fitout — mechanical and expedition gear in one live budget. Click cheap / medium / luxury per row; "Your extras" totals your picks (default = medium). The blue figure is added weight — watch it against your GVM upgrade.
Upgrade
🟢 Cheap
🟡 Medium
🔴 Luxury
Your extras—
All-cheap—
All-medium—
All-luxury—
Indicative AUD (June 2026), on top of the base vehicle and the standard interior fitout. Fitted prices where the job is professional; US/EU-only items are converted and will land 20–40% higher after freight, duty + GST. These are estimates to size the decision — get local quotes (Adventure Fitouts for Van Compass/Sprinter, KombiLife/Trakka for Seikel/Crafter, your suspension + bull-bar shops) before committing.
The big "extras" you flagged — auto-levelling & air suspension
Auto-levelling jacks (powered legs that level the whole van, wheels can lift off) — Redfoot (AU, ~60 installers) ~$8k installed; E&P Hydraulics (German) ~$10–14k; HWH/Bigfoot/Quadra are effectively US-only and hard to service here. Off-road caveat: they add 40–90 kg and hang low, costing departure angle — many overlanders skip them.
Air suspension is usually the smarter off-road choice — it self-levels at camp and raises ride height. VB-Airsuspension has a dedicated AU operation (a real advantage over US brands): helper airbags (~$700–1,500), VB-SemiAir (~$2,500–4,500), or VB-FullAir auto-level (~$7–11k rear / ~$14–22k 4-corner).
Victoria legality: helper bags assisting the standard springs are usually a minor mod; full air suspension that changes ride height or replaces the spring needs a VicRoads signatory engineer's certificate and ADR compliance (height changes >50 mm must be certified). Confirm with a signatory before buying.
WildWorx "Play Dirty" digest.
A collation of the gear and upgrades from the WildWorx Play Dirty channel you flagged — what they spec on serious off-road Sprinter/MAN/Crafter builds, and the Australian equivalents to source instead of their UK parts.
How this was gathered (honesty note): I can't watch video, and every YouTube transcript service was blocked in this environment, so I couldn't pull verbatim transcripts — including for the "small upgrades that change a campervan" video (YRVBoGOOAF0) you linked. This digest is reconstructed from their own sites (wildworxcustoms.com, store goplaydirty.com) and detailed press write-ups of the exact builds the videos showcase — so the brands/products are reliable, but treat it as "their recipe", not a line-by-line transcript. You may be able to open that video's transcript yourself in a browser.
Who they are
A UK high-end off-road conversion company (Frazer Johnson & Katie, Alcester, Warwickshire) building expedition-grade Mercedes Sprinter 4×4, MAN TGE 4×4 (a rebadged Crafter), VW Crafter and T6. Product lines named Swamper and Overlander. Their gear store, goplaydirty.com, sells the off-road extras as standalone products — the single best source for the exact brands they rate. The YRVBoGOOAF0 video maps to their "Top-10 upgrades" list: pop-top roof, rear ladder + spare carrier, A/C, big inverter, wheels & tyres, solar, snorkel, wind-out awning, side pods/flares, air suspension.
Their recipe → the Australian equivalent
Category
What WildWorx specs
Source it in AU as…
Suspension / lift
Seikel "Desert" lift; VB Air Suspension (self-levels at camp)
Seikel via Trakka/KombiLife (Crafter); ARB/Old Man Emu or Lovells for Sprinter; VB-Airsuspension has an AU arm
Auto-levelling
AL-KO HY4 hydraulic 4-leg (their headline feature, from £7,495)
Niche here — Redfoot (AU) ~$8k, or go air-suspension instead
Tyres / wheels
BFGoodrich All-Terrain on Rogue/Swamper alloys
BFG KO2/KO3 widely stocked; Method MR701 wheels have an AU distributor
Lighting
Lazer Lamps (UK) grille spots + roof LED bar
Lazer has AU distribution; or Stedi/Lightforce (AU-made, better value)
All strong AU presence — same as the standard build
Connectivity
Starlink (roof-mounted)
Starlink Mini, available in AU
Their signature UK/EU parts (Seikel, AL-KO HY4, Rogue alloys, Bravo, Atek, Karitek) are import-or-substitute for a Melbourne build — the table's right column is the local swap. Most of the consumer gear (BFG, Lazer, Fiamma, MaxxAir, Truma, Dometic, Victron, Starlink, MaxTrax) you can just buy here.
Everything else = the standard build.
The interior is identical — there's no point duplicating it. All of the following lives on the main build & electrical pages:
Interior components & budget (the full tiered fitout table) → Build · Components
Power & electrical (calculator, battery/inverter sizing, all-in-one vs DIY, component list) → Electrical page
Build schedule (task hours, milestones) → Build · Schedule — add mechanical shop-time on top