A first-pass build plan for a large luxury Sprinter β pick your component tiers and the total adds up live, then set your hours/week to see how long it takes. Refine once the exact van's chosen.
Quick answers to your brain-dump
Sideways double bed at 165 cm? Yes. Any L3/L4 Sprinter gives ~1.65β1.70 m clear width after panelling β you fit east-west, flat, no flares or recesses needed. Build the bed low (near wheel-arch height) to keep the full width. On the XLWB (L4) a sideways bed frees the whole rear as a garage β ideal for your tools + e-bike.
Electric instant shower heat? No β physics says ~6 kW. Heat water with a diesel water heater (Truma Combi also does cabin heat), engine heat-exchanger as a free bonus on driving days. Everything else electric.
Your 12 kWh battery is well-sized (modest day ~3.6 kWh, hot gaming day ~10 kWh). Pair with a 5 kW / 48 V inverter, ~600β800 W solar, and alternator charging as co-primary.
All-electric / no gas works β induction + microwave + kettle are fine on energy, but they drive inverter size (run one big load at a time). Going gas-free removes a vented locker + certification.
Solo + occasional guest: a pull-out singleβdouble or a powered lift bed (rises by day) both work; passenger swivel seat = your desk + workstation.
Components & budget.
Click cheap / medium / luxury on each row β "Your build" totals your picks live (default = medium). The three fixed totals show an all-one-tier build. Watch the dependency notes: power voltage, gas-vs-induction and rooftop A/C are the three choices that swing everything.
Component
π’ Cheap
π‘ Medium
π΄ Luxury
Your buildβ
All-cheapβ
All-mediumβ
All-luxuryβ
Parts only β excludes the base vehicle and your labour. Indicative AUD (2026); imported items add ~15β25% landed. Don't double-buy heat + hot water (a Truma Combi is both). See the plan page's Build & budget summary β
Power & battery sizing.
Your stated loads, costed in energy. The headline: heat water with diesel, run one big electric load at a time, and your 12 kWh is the right size.
Load
Watts
Modest day
Heavy (hot, gaming) day
Fridge (12V compressor)
~45
~480 Wh
~675 Wh
Air-con (avg over cooling)
~350
off (~0)
~2,800 Wh
Diesel heater (electrical only)
~10
~120 Wh
0 (warm)
Gaming PC
~450β500
~900 Wh (2 h)
~2,500 Wh (5 h)
MacBook + 32" monitor
~90
~360 Wh
~450 Wh
Roof fan @ 30%
~10
~160 Wh
~270 Wh
Kettle + induction (bursts)
2000 / 1200
~860 Wh
~1,740 Wh
Lights / pump / misc
β
~135 Wh
~200 Wh
Daily total (shower on diesel)
β
~3.0β3.6 kWh
~8.6β10 kWh
β‘ The shower is the one that breaks the bank. An instant electric shower needs ~6 kW β no van inverter (even 7 kW) can feed it, and the energy dwarfs everything else. Use a diesel water heater (Webasto / Truma Combi), with the engine heat-exchanger for free hot water after driving. A small ~750 W slow-fill tank is the only sane all-electric fallback (short showers only).
Sizing recommendation
Battery: ~12β15 kWh usable (2β3 days at modest use) β your existing 12 kWh is bang-on; going bigger adds weight/cost for little gain.
Inverter: 5 kW / 48 V (covers kettle + induction + PC together; 48 V keeps cables sane). Prefer 48 V architecture β it's what makes A/C + induction + microwave co-exist.
Solar: fit the max roof (~600β800 W β 2β3 kWh on a good summer day) but treat alternator/DC-DC charging while driving as co-primary β no roof array closes a 10 kWh winter day, so you'll drive or shore-charge.
All-in-one vs DIY: a Bluetti Apex 300 (2.8 kWh, 3.8 kW) only works expanded (base + 3β4 packs β 11β14 kWh); EcoFlow Delta Pro Ultra (7.2 kW, 6 kWh/battery) is the strongest turnkey but heavy/pricey; a DIY 48 V 12β15 kWh bank is the best Wh-per-$ and Wh-per-kg. The shipping trade-off is real: a removable station ships lithium-free easily; the DIY 12 kWh is best for use but a fixed install (or you ship lithium-free + rebuy in EU).
Electrical β which architecture?
The most expensive, most locked-in decision in the build β the one you asked to dig into after seeing the EberspΓ€cher Zeliox Neo. Here's how the Neo and the alternatives stack up β and (per your pushback) a serious look at building electrical-light and buying an all-in-one in Europe. Short version: this is really one decision with shipping. Because a tall luxury build can't fit a shipping container, going lithium-free and buying an all-in-one in Europe is the cleanest path β and it's cost-competitive with reusing your own batteries once you count the house-bank replacement and the per-crossing lithium premium. The honest catch: "plug-and-play" is only ~80% true.
The Zeliox Neo, specifically
EberspΓ€cher Zeliox Neo 4000 β clever box, wrong fit for you
What it is: a sealed 48 V all-in-one β LiFePO4 battery + 4 kW inverter (8 kW peak) + solar MPPT + alternator DC-DC + mains charger + 12 V output in one 43 kg box, with a touchscreen, 4G app and 5-yr warranty, from EberspΓ€cher (the diesel-heater brand). Base β Β£3,100β3,720 (~A$6,400β7,600).
β Caps at 9.6 kWh (base 2.4 kWh + max 3 add-ons) β below your 12β15 kWh target, no headroom, and dear per kWh (~$1,200β1,400/kWh). Add-on battery pricing isn't even published β you'd have to phone a distributor.
β Sealed & non-serviceable β the manual literally says "repair is not permitted." One fault kills battery + inverter + all charging at once, and it's an EU-only whole-unit RMA. Bad trait for a van you live in full-time and ship round-trip.
β Can't use your 12 kWh bank β buying it means abandoning hardware you already own (~$3β5k wasted).
β Who it's actually for: someone starting from zero, β€9.6 kWh needs, who prizes one clean plug-and-play box over repairability and isn't shipping internationally. Not you.
12 V vs 48 V β and why owning the bank settles it
12 V
48 V
Current to run ~4.8 kW
~400 A (impractical/dangerous)
~100 A
Cable + busbars
Huge gauge, heavy, costly
ΒΌ the copper β thinner, lighter, cheaper & safer (ΒΌ the current = far less heat at terminals, where DC fires start; 48 V is still under the 60 V touch-safe line)
A 5 kW inverter
No (β450 A draw)
Yes
12 V loads (fridge, pump, fan, heater, lights)
Native
Need a 48β12 V DC-DC converter
A/C + induction + microwave together
No
Yes
Your existing battery
β
β already 48 V
Verdict: 48 V. Your load profile (5 kW inverter, induction + A/C + microwave + gaming PC + big fridge) is textbook 48 V on its own β and you already own a 48 V bank, which removes the only argument against it (battery cost). Two hidden costs to budget, though: a 48β12 V DC-DC converter (~$450) for the 12 V sub-bus, and a proper 48 V alternator-charging path (Wakespeed WS500 + bi-directional DC-DC, ~$1,500β3,000) β there's no off-the-shelf Victron 12β48 V engine charger, so this is the fiddliest sub-system. You can defer engine-charging and lean on solar + shore to save it for later.
Your pushback: build light, buy the battery in Europe
You proposed building the van without batteries, shipping it lithium-free, and buying a plug-and-play all-in-one in Europe β day-zero warranty, house batteries left where they are. It's a strong idea, and it's coupled to how you ship: a tall luxury Sprinter (~2.9β3.0 m finished) can't fit a 40 ft container (~2.58 m door), so it must go RoRo β and RoRo + an installed lithium bank is exactly what carriers are restricting (the two biggest RoRo lines now refuse used EVs outright). So the real fork:
Fixed system, lithium aboard (DIY Victron, or an installed all-in-one). Clean only if the van fits a container (a lower / standard-roof build). For a tall van forced onto RoRo, an installed battery is increasingly refused, or pushes you to flat-rack (+$3β7k/crossing).
Build light β ship lithium-free β buy the all-in-one in the EU (your plan). For a tall RoRo van this is the cleanest booking, widest carrier choice, no DG premium, warranty starts the day you start driving (serviced in-region), and your house batteries stay put.
The all-in-ones, sized to ~12β15 kWh / 5 kW, bought in the EU
System (EU config)
EU price βAUD
Inverter
AC charge max
Solar / alternator
Warranty
Plug-and-play?
EcoFlow Delta Pro Ultra inverter + 2β3Γ 6 kWh
~$11.5k (12 kWh) ~$14.8k (18 kWh)
6.9 kW β only one β₯5 kW from a single box
3.0 kW
5.6 kW / none built-in (add charger)
5 yr EU+AU
β οΈ Portable AC box β still build 12 V + solar + alt charger
Bluetti Apex 300 + 2Γ B500K ~13 kWh
~$10.8k
3.84 kW (7.7 kW peak); parallel 2 for 5 kW+
3.84 kW (Turbo)
~4 kW / ~1.2 kW
5 yr EU+AU
β οΈ Portable AC box β most integration DIY
EcoFlow Power Kit 15 kWh (Hub + 3Γ 5 kWh)
~$22.4k
3.6 kW (parallel for more)
3.0 kW
4.8 kW / 1.0 kW built-in
5 yr EU+AU
β β Van-native: built-in 12 V fused panel + alternator + solar + inverter
EberspΓ€cher Zeliox Neo
Out β caps at 9.6 kWh (below target), single inverter < 5 kW, priciest per kWh, sealed.
Two things the matrix makes obvious. (1) Only the Delta Pro Ultra delivers your 5 kW from a single box β Apex and Power Kit need paralleling or careful load management (run induction or microwave or A/C, not all at once). (2) Only the Power Kit is genuinely "van-native" (ships with a 12 V fused distribution panel + alternator + solar inputs); the portable stations are AC boxes that still need a 12 V sub-system built around them. So "plug-and-play" really means "skip the battery + inverter + chargers," not "skip the wiring."
Charging from a power point β how long to fill ~13 kWh
Your motel / friend's-house / campsite question. These units auto-throttle to whatever socket they're on, so they won't trip the supply.
Source
Power
Time to fill ~13 kWh
Notes
EU campsite hookup, 16 A
~3 kW
~4β4.5 h
The fast everyday case β a long lunch or evening tops you off
EU / AU domestic socket, 10 A
~2.3 kW
~5.7 h
A motel powerpoint or a friend's outlet β full overnight, easily
EU budget pitch, 6 A
~1.4 kW
~10 h
Common in France / Spain / Italy β slow but fine overnight
USA / Mexico socket, 120 V
~1.6 kW
~8 h
The real "slow-charge" gotcha for the USA / Mexico legs β overnight only
Solar, 600β800 W roof
~3β4 kWh/day
top-up, not a fill
Covers a modest day; won't refill a heavy 10 kWh day alone
Alternator while driving
~0.6β1.5 kW
~2β4 kWh per 3 h drive
Useful on travel days; portables need an add-on charger for this
Verdict on the power-point question: any normal socket β motel, house, campsite β refills the bank overnight comfortably, and a 16 A campsite hookup does it in an afternoon. Plugging in wherever you park genuinely keeps the van topped up; solar + alternator are the off-grid top-ups between plug-ins. Just budget more shore time in the USA / Mexico (120 V is roughly half Europe's speed).
What it really costs β three ways, with the hidden bits
The correction to my first take: "reuse my bank" isn't free β taking your 12 kWh into the van means buying a new house bank (~$5.5k). And a fixed battery adds a per-crossing lithium premium. Both counted below (hardware + house, before shipping).
Already running; relocated DIY cells may have no warranty
~$11.5β14.5k
B. DIY Victron, new van battery
Victron ~$6β9k + new van bank ~$5.5k (house untouched)
Lithium aboard β same premium / risk
Starts ~6β12 mo before you drive; AU-serviced
~$11.5β15k
C. Build light + EU all-in-one (your plan)
Apex ~$10.8k / DPU ~$14.8k / Power Kit ~$22.4k β house bank untouched
Lithium-free RoRo β cleanest, cheapest, no DG premium
Day-zero, serviced in-region
~$10.8β14.8k (Apex/DPU)
Per-crossing lithium premium on A/B: ~$0.5β2k in fees if a carrier even takes it, or +$3β7k if it forces flat-rack β and that multiplies across 2 crossings round-trip (4β6+ if you later ship to the USA & South America). C with a portable all-in-one (Apex/DPU) lands cost-competitive-to-cheaper than A/B once the house bank and shipping are counted β and keeps your $5.5k+ house batteries.
β Revised recommendation β your instinct holds up
For the tall luxury Sprinter you're leaning toward, build electrical-light, ship lithium-free, and buy an all-in-one in Europe. The van can't container anyway, so this is the cleanest shipping path; it's cost-competitive-to-cheaper once the house-bank replacement and per-crossing lithium premium are counted; and the warranty starts the day you start living in it, serviced where you're travelling. Your house batteries stay home.
Best picks:
EcoFlow Power Kit 15 kWh (~$22.4k) β the only genuinely van-integrated option (built-in 12 V fused panel, alternator, solar, inverter). ~Double the price and the inverter's 3.6 kW (manage big loads one at a time), but the least DIY, and it ships fine on later legs as an installed system.
2Γ Bluetti Apex 300 + B500K (~$11β13k) β true 5 kW+ paralleled, cheapest route, but you do the most integration.
EcoFlow Delta Pro Ultra, 18 kWh (~$14.8k) β the only one to clear 5 kW (6.9 kW) from a single box; portable, so the easiest first shipment.
If you instead chose a lower / container-able van (or a pop-top), keeping your own lithium + a DIY Victron comes back on the table β a container ships an installed battery relatively easily. Van height is the upstream decision.
The two honest caveats + what to check
"Plug-and-play" is ~80%. The portable stations are AC boxes β you still build a 12 V system (fridge/pump/lights/fan), wire solar in, and add an alternator charger (the DPU has no native alternator input). You're deferring the battery + inverter + chargers, not the loom.
The later-chapter trap. A loose power station legally can't ship inside the van as cargo. So EuropeβUSAβSouth America means either re-shipping lithium-free and moving the station separately each time, or hard-installing it (which recreates the lithium-aboard problem). Decide multi-continent up front: yes β lean to the installed Power Kit; Europe-first β a portable Apex/DPU is fine.
Before buying: confirm EU stock (the DPU battery is pre-order ~Jul 2026; Power Kits sell out), factor VAT (~20%, already in these prices) and export formalities for non-EU legs, and get written RoRo quotes (lithium-free vs aboard) for your van's ~35 mΒ³ from K-Line / HΓΆegh agents.
Needs serious thought.
These few choices cascade into everything else β decide them first, because they re-price the whole build.
The decisions that control the build
Power voltage β 12 V vs 48 V. 48 V is what makes rooftop A/C + induction + microwave + electric hot-water co-exist without melting cables. Choosing it re-prices the whole electrical loom (thicker cable, Class-T fusing, 48 V DC-DC, 48 V A/C). Decide before buying anything electrical.
Removable all-in-one vs fixed DIY bank. The crux of your "carry-it-out box" idea: removability solves shipping + is dual-use, but the all-in-one big enough for your loads is heavy + pricey; the DIY 12 kWh is cheaper/bigger but fixed. Resolve this with the shipping plan.
Gas vs induction. A fork, not an add-on: gas β vented locker + bottle + certification; induction β bigger inverter + battery. You lean all-electric β that removes the gas locker entirely.
Rooftop A/C yes/no. It forces a large battery / 48 V and adds roof height + weight (watch EU 2.6 m car-park/ferry bands). Under-bench is the lower-profile alternative.
Shower water heating. Diesel (Truma Combi) vs a slow electric tank β settled above, but it dictates your heater choice (don't also buy a standalone diesel heater).
Bed: fixed east-west vs powered lift. East-west fits you at 165 cm and frees the rear (garage); a lift bed frees the floor by day for an office but needs ceiling clearance + structure. Pick one early β it sets the whole layout.
GVM plating. Keep it β€ 4,490 kg to stay car-licence-legal + simplify shipping; a loaded luxury Sprinter gets close, so weight-budget every component (weighbridge milestone in the schedule).
Build schedule.
Task hours from real builds (~650 core, plan ~850 with rework). Set your hours/week and the weeks recalculate. Blue rows are testing milestones β baked in at the right points.
I can work hours/week β β
Task (in build order)
Hours
Weeks
Notes
"Weeks" = task hours Γ· your hours/week. Total shows core hours and a realistic +30% rework figure. Cabinetry (~130 h) and electrical (~70 h) are the big sinks; pre-made cabinet kits are the biggest time-saver.
Dimensions & SketchUp.
Internal dimensions to rough out a model, plus existing SketchUp shells to start from. You use SketchUp β import a shell, then verify it against these before drawing furniture (many Warehouse models are slightly off-scale).
Internal (mm)
L3H2 (LWB high)
L3H3 (LWB super-high)
L4H3 (XLWB super-high)
Load length (flat)
~4,307
~4,307
~4,707
Width wall-to-wall (above arches)
~1,787
~1,787
~1,787
Width between wheel arches
~1,350
~1,350
~1,350
Standing height
~1,976
~2,243
~2,243
Side door opening (WΓH)
1,260 Γ 1,899
1,260 Γ 1,899
1,260 Γ 1,899
Rear door opening (WΓH)
1,555 Γ 1,927
1,555 Γ 1,927
1,555 Γ 1,927
Usable east-west bed width (after panels)
~1,650β1,700 β a 165 cm sleeper fits flat, no flares needed (build the bed low, near arch height)
Retractable hard shower door (Nautilus) β a real shower that rolls into a ~5 kg cassette so the aisle reopens. video
Slim shower + toilet wet-bath (24"Γ48") β composting toilet doubles as the shower seat; full bathroom without stealing the galley. Sara & Alex James 144 build
Rear "garage" with slide-out trays + L-track β fixed bed up high, season-swap bins below; perfect for your tools/e-bike. video
48 V architecture (native Victron NG) β ΒΌ the amps; what unlocks induction + A/C + big fridge together. 12V vs 48V
48 V second-alternator charging (5β6 kW while driving) β refills a big bank fast on short hops; makes electric-everything realistic. guide
Gas-free induction galley β no propane, no locker, no leak/CO risk. why
DC (12/48 V) air-con, no inverter β runs straight off the battery, ~30% longer runtime. Velit 2000R
Motorised lift / ceiling bed β rises by day to free the floor for an office, drops at night. DIY Β· AU kit
Swivel-seat workstation β passenger seat + fold-out counter = your office. Swivel the passenger seat (not driver) to keep driving position right. how-to
Truma Combi diesel heat + hot water β one 17 kg unit, cabin heat AND 10 L hot water off the diesel tank, no propane. install
Interior slide-out e-bike garage trays β drawers extend ~4 ft to load bikes at waist height, then tuck inside (stealthier than a hitch rack). FarOutRide
Magnetic insulated blackout window covers β privacy + thermal + stealth, pop in/out in seconds. tested DIY